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March 7th, 2000, 05:28 PM
#1
Inactive Member
So I was perusing BEGI's web site today and caught this quote:
"We are annoyingly aware that the regulator does not enjoy the highest esteem amoung forced induction users. There is one hugely comical reason for that, virtually all of these FMU's sold today (except ours) are direct copies of the original we introduced in 1975. No one has seen fit to improve it since, except us, and we've done so with four new additional designs over a span of 24 years. One of the greatest critisms of the FMU is it's flat spot in the fuel curve at three inches of vacuum to 2 psi boost. We cured that problem years ago, yet all the replica's on the market did not. We re-designed the FMU to start raising the fuel pressure long before the system is under boost. Then we made that onset point adjustable, and the rate of gain is
now also adjustable. The net result is the fuel curve can be raised, lowered and even tilted. So before someone suggests that FMU's don't do the job, at least find out what a modern FMU can do for you, that those old antiques that everyone else uses never imagined was possible."
I know Corky Bell did invent the (RR)FMU, but I thought a number of manufactures had at least as good ones as Cartech? Just trying to figure out some things for my friend's soon-to-be JR'ed teg.
What do y'all think?
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March 7th, 2000, 07:43 PM
#2
Senior Hostboard Member
The JR and the Vortech FMU's both increase fuel pressure while there's still vaccuum. The JR FMU's rise rate is non-adjustable, but adequate until folks start modding their systems with more boost, bigger injectors, higher capacity fuel pumps, or any combination thereof, while the Vortech and Cartech units are both fully adjustable. The Cartech unit is simpler and much less expensive.
[This message has been edited by rjaffey (edited March 07, 2000).]
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March 7th, 2000, 08:44 PM
#3
Inactive Member
It seems Cartech's latest and greatest (RR)FPR can cure that flat spot at tip in.(0 PSI) Seems worth trying @ $259.
Anyone out there played with this yet?
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March 7th, 2000, 09:20 PM
#4
Inactive Member
Corky always exagerates. He's cool, but having met the guy, Quirky work be a good name too. IMO SX is the best FPR out there, period. It's very adjustable, doesn't have that "flat spot" or any flat spot, and is the most reliable FPR period. Many cars use the SX for static fuel pressure because it is so reliable and can flow so much fuel.
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Ryan Earl
'99 Turbo SH
NTPOG - North Texas Prelude Owners Group
My Page
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March 8th, 2000, 01:15 AM
#5
Inactive Member
I have the Cartech fpr on my SC Civic. It works as advertised. You have to make sure not to use the 'restrictor' though. It doesn't allow/wasn't designed for instant boost. It probably works great for great for turbo though. When I had the Jackson fpr, fuel didn't rise at 0 psi. I wonder if mine was defective.
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March 8th, 2000, 04:34 PM
#6
Inactive Member
So how do you have your Cartech set?
What would you recommend for a JRSC 8psi Integra setup? I'm going to start playing with mine, but you may have some good ideas?
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http://www.netbsi-kc.com/integra/
http://www.netbsi-kc.com/aa/
http://www.groupbuycenter.com/
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March 9th, 2000, 04:24 PM
#7
Inactive Member
Hi all,
I'm a new GSR owner but I've had some experience with BEGI stuff (turbos and more) and also with JRSC. Had two Miatas, one turboed and the second with JRSC. My experience and that of others is that the JRSC (at least for the Miata) works best at 6 p.s.i. No sh*t, I've seen dyno charts from a bunch of guys who went to a dyno day. The higest powered superchargers were plain 6 p.s.i. cars. Typically ran 153 or so rwhp. The guys who modded up their S/Cs and put 8 psi pulleys and all kinds of crap could not ever get close to 150 rwhp. My Miata always ran best when I did not mess with it. The minute I added MSD and AFPR, I started having idle problems and sh*t like that. The best solution for fuel management (in a MIata with s/c) is the A'pex-i fuel computer. It works really well and can fine tune the fuel very accurately. Not bad for under $400.
As far as the BEGI turbo, I had a very bad experience. I had the Aerocharger intercooled set up with J&S (a huge power robber) the Cartech AFPR, and Pieburg fuel pump. The set up was OK when it ran but the blowers went south with frightening regularity. I got tired of F**king with the blowers and took it off and sold the car in stock form.
The lesson here is quite clear, the JRSC is as good as it gets in stock (6 psi) form. Reliable, simple and safe. If you want more power go with a "conventional" turbo set up, if you have a Miata you can buy a programmable ECU and they say it will take care of fuel, timing, and everything including your sex life ;-) just get ready to spend the big $$
For my money, I'm going to go JRSC. I hope I listen to my own advise and leave the sucker alone and at 6 psi. Oh, I did do one thing with my Miata JRSC, I had the plenum and other parts ported and polished. The whole thing breathes much better. It did however take off some boost. I could never get more than 5 psi. OTOH, I had no detonation and the car was really fast and quick (no GSR fast but good enough for a Miata)
Manuel
Check the blown Miatas at: http://manuelp.home.mindspring.com/miatas.html
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March 9th, 2000, 06:35 PM
#8
Inactive Member
I have the Cartech set so fuel pressure rise just before 0 vac. I am using about a 7:1 rate of rise right now. It feels good by the seat of the pants. I am planning to install a a/f ratio meter (splitsecond ARM1 next week-splitsec.com). That should help me tune it alot better than the EGT gauge. Anybody using splitsecond stuff? Splitsecond & JR are working on fuel/timing solutions for the Prelude system together (confirmed by JR). Has anybody used their products?
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